How much protein does a dog need? Grams per day

For Nami, we're at about 25–30% protein. We don't need more – she's playful but not a sporting dog.

According to FEDIAF, an adult dog needs at least 18% protein in the dry matter, and a young puppy at least 25%. For a normally active 20 kg dog with a daily requirement of around 1,060 kcal, that's at least about 48 g of protein a day – many healthy dogs get considerably more, and based on current knowledge, that's not a problem for healthy kidneys.

You read the packaging of your dog food and see: 24% crude protein. Is that a lot? A little? Enough? Honestly – the figure on the bag alone doesn't tell you everything. But it's a good start.

Let's talk plainly for a moment about what protein actually does for your dog and how much they really need.

Protein supplies amino acids – the building blocks for muscles, coat, skin, hormones, enzymes and the immune system. Dogs aren't pure carnivores like cats, but they're clearly meat-oriented. Ten essential amino acids have to come from food, because the body can't make them itself. If one of them is missing, it will show sooner or later: a dull coat, muscle loss, poor wound healing.

FEDIAF (the European pet food industry federation) publishes nutrient guidelines that complete pet foods in Europe follow. Minimum values for protein in the dry matter:

• Adult dogs: at least 18% (21% for calm dogs with low energy needs)
• Puppies in early growth (under 14 weeks) and pregnant and nursing bitches: at least 25%
• Young dogs from 14 weeks: at least 20%

Dry matter means: calculated without the water. With dry food, the figure is usually printed straight on the pack, because dry food only contains 8–10% moisture anyway. With wet food, you have to convert – 8% crude protein in wet food is often already 32% on a dry matter basis, because most of it is water.

In practice, many adult dry foods are well above the minimum. Very active working and sporting dogs are often given foods that are richer in protein and energy.

FEDIAF also calculates per 1,000 kcal: an adult, normally active dog needs at least 45 g of protein per 1,000 kcal. A neutered, normally active 20 kg dog with a daily requirement of around 1,060 kcal therefore comes to at least about 48 g of protein a day – that's around 2.4 g per kilogram. Many healthy dogs get considerably more, about 3 to 4 g per kilogram, so 60 to 80 g. The calorie needs calculator shows your dog's calorie requirement.

Sounds like a small amount? In terms of fresh meat, 50 to 80 g of protein is roughly 250 to 400 g of raw turkey breast, because raw muscle meat only contains about 20 to 24% protein – the rest is mainly water. Which types of meat are suitable is covered in which meat is best for dogs.

Puppies need considerably more per kilo, because they're growing. And yes: older dogs tend to need slightly more protein than younger ones – contrary to the old belief. They often use it less efficiently. More on this in our guide to nutrition for senior dogs.

“Too much protein damages the kidneys.” You still hear this all the time. It comes mainly from older animal experiments, including some on rats, and was then applied to dogs. For healthy dogs, there's no evidence that a high-protein diet damages the kidneys.

What is true: if your dog already has chronic kidney disease (CKD), the vet will recommend a protein-reduced diet. But that's treatment, not prevention. Cutting protein as a precaution achieves nothing – except that your dog builds muscle less well.

The figure on the bag doesn't tell you where the protein comes from. 25% protein from turkey breast is something completely different from 25% protein from feather meal. Both formally meet the requirement. But your dog can only make use of one of them.

High-quality protein comes from:

• muscle meat (turkey, chicken, beef, lamb, fish)
• eggs (the highest biological value of all)
• offal such as heart and liver
• low-fat dairy products in moderation (cottage cheese, quark)

Less good: animal meals of unclear origin, “animal by-products” without further detail, pure plant protein as the main source. Oh, and that doesn't mean plant protein is bad. Peas and lentils are fine as a supplement. But they shouldn't make up the bulk.

A tip: look at the ingredients list. If “turkey (50%)” comes first, that's a good sign. If “cereals” or “vegetable by-products” are at the front, less so.

In our community, owners sometimes ask: “My dog eats grain-free light food – is that okay?” It depends. Some light varieties reduce fat and protein at the same time – that's a botch. When a dog is losing weight, protein has to stay high, otherwise they lose muscle instead of fat – more on this in helping your dog lose weight.

Signs of too little protein: a dull, brittle coat, muscle loss (especially visible on the head and hindquarters), poor wound healing, lack of energy. If you notice any of these, it's worth taking a look at the food and talking to your vet.

In healthy dogs: practically not. Excess protein is broken down and excreted in the urine. You're more likely to be wasting money than doing any harm. This doesn't apply to dogs with liver disease, CKD or certain metabolic disorders – in those cases, the vet decides the amount.

Look at activity level, age, health and breed. An older Pug on the sofa needs less protein than a young Husky running 15 km every day. It sounds obvious, but it's often forgotten.

Don't want to guess whether your food is right? In the DoggoMeal app, you enter your dog's weight, age and activity and see straight away how much protein each recipe contains – per portion and per day. Get the app and give it a try.